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The Lake George Mirror
Table Talk
by Blaze Marshall
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Sometimes
the best kept secrets are right
under our noses. How many times
have I traveled route 9N
(Lakeshore Drive)
and looked
down over a stone wall and
across a wide expanse of lawn at
the Villa Napoli, never making
that turn down a long driveway
to investigate what’s inside and
experience their cuisine.
Melody
Manor is a beautiful resort,
well manicured, on the lake and
there in sets this free standing
Ristorante Italiano.
On this Sunday evening, along
with five constant companions,
we struck out for the Villa
Napoli.
Many years ago it was
the Manor Inn, then Poggi’s.
Ten
years ago Rose and Damian Alessi
decided to run it themselves,
and following the former lessor
continued with original Italian
cuisine.
We called
ahead for reservations and upon
driving in at our appointed time
we were pleased to find only a
few tables occupied. A good time
to convince not-so-thirsty
companions to
check out the very
attractive bar and lounge.
Good fortune
continued when we were greeted
by Rose, one of the owners, busy
tidying up the bar. We asked
about Peroni beer and Lemongello
liquor and she had both to
offer.
Oh boy, a “real” Italian
restaurant!
We all
relaxed and ordered a round of
beverages. The bar is done in
rich mahogany tones, the back
bar honeycombed, serving as a
massive wine rack, and there is
a beautiful rendering of Amalfi
on the foyer wall. The dining
room is spacious, tables well
positioned under wonderful
chandeliers, and a huge stone
fireplace is the centerpiece,
along with a diamond shaped wine
rack on one wall.
Nice touches, truly classic
Italian, but not overdone.
Perhaps by
luck, perhaps because the staff
really knows how to please, we
were directed to a corner table
just inside open French doors.
The scene outside was an
unexpected, beautiful view of a
picture perfect brook, falling
over a waterfall, next to two
beautiful arches framing an
Italian garden, much like one we
had seen on the Isle of Capri.
Artist Friend wanted to go home
and get her easel.
Our
waitress, Zena, arrived
immediately and reported some of
the daily specials that are also
outside on the blackboard for
all to see. Chef Carl Sotanski,
who has been at the helm for
four years, has created a very
interesting menu, selecting
regions of Italy to offer up his
specialties.
This night
he was featuring moonfish, veal
scaloppini, and a veal chop as
entrees. The
menu is very creative,
covers most of Italy’s famous
regions and ranges from a Veggie
pizza for $8.50 to Ossobuco
$23.95, and Zuppa Di. Pesce for
$22.95.
Companions
agreed on beginning with a
cold antipasto platter that
was laden with imported cured
meats, grilled vegetable and
imported olives and cheeses. We
also chose to share a plate of
grilled baby calamari that
came with a spicy lemon and
olive oil dressing, fresh
arugula, and baby greens.
Constant Golfer, who loves
calamari almost refused to let
us tee off on this dish. We also
sampled a wonderful tower of
fresh vegetables layered with
grilled Portobello zucchini and
eggplant layered with
mozzarella, roasted peppers and
garnished with a pesto and
balsamic sauce.
Wonderful beginnings. All
entrees come with fresh, warm
bread, a house salad and pasta.
Miss Picky,
of course, chose Chicken
Sorrentino, a generous breast,
sautéed, breaded and layered
with eggplant, proscuitto,
mozzarella, and tomato sauce. No
proscuitto for her, and the
kitchen got it right.
Constant
Golfer went with his usual
scallops, this time with shrimp,
sautéed in garlic butter, white
wine, fresh diced tomatoes and
basil over spaghetti. Country
Club friend chose the moonfish,
which was lightly dressed with a
delicate lobster sauce and fresh
spinach. Nurse Mary went with a
real scaloppini that consisted
of three lightly breaded cutlets
accompanied by mushroom
ravioli
in a rich demi-glace. She gave
this dish “two thumbs up”. Only
on rare occasions does she leave
her plate clean. She did this
time!
Artist
Friend was intrigued by
Melanzane Imbottito, which
turned out to be layers of fresh
eggplant, spinach, ricotta,
parmesan and mozzarella cheese,
roasted red peppers doused with
a very rich tomato sauce. She
even washed it down with the
menu suggestion of Pinot Grigio.
For me, the
lamb chop arrived medium rare,
bone in, with a hint of
rosemary, alongside wonderful
fresh spinach, pasta
combination.
Zena offered
a wide selection of desserts,
and we chose to split a giant
berry sorbet that had plenty of
whole blueberries and
cranberries to boot. Our other
choice dessert was a mud cake
fudge torte. It was very moist
with very fresh chocolate mousse
and chunks of rich Vienna fudge,
drizzled with bittersweet
chocolate granache.
Zena asked
about doggie bags and came to
the table with three, placing
the leftovers in the containers
tableside. A nice touch.
Service
throughout our meal was very
efficient. Water glasses filled
as necessary, not rushed and all
the dishes were described perfectly.
Villa Napoli
Italian Restaurant is right there
on Lake
George, by
boat or by car and their very
innovative regional Italian
cuisine will make you take
notice.
It is a secret no more.
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Around the World,
by Stacey Morris.
Publication Date: 08/04/1999
Editor's note: "Around the World
... In Our Back Yard" is a
monthly food series exploring
the ethnic diversity of the
region.
A
Flavorful Family Affair
Local restauranteur perfects
southern Italian dishes with a
little help from her
mother-in-law |
BOLTON LANDING -
Rose Alessi is familiar with the
perils of running a seasonal
business: three months of
nonstop work at breakneck speed,
unexpected shifts in personnel,
the occasional power outage
during a storm.
For the past six years, she and
husband Damian have owned and
operated Melody Manor and Villa
Napoli, a motel and restaurant
situated on a sprawling campus
that overlooks Lake George.
It was actually during one of
the never-ending seasonal crises
that Alessi's career as a chef
took flight.
"One of my chefs just walked off
the job," she remembered,
shaking her head. "I felt so
helpless --
so I made a vow that I would
never allow that to happen to me
again."
That led Alessi to study
culinary arts at Adirondack
Community College. But since
Villa Napoli restaurant
specializes in southern and
northern Italian cuisine, Alessi
decided to enlist a higher
authority to hone her Italian
cooking skills -- her
mother-in-law, Elena, a native
of Naples, Italy.
"I always admired Italian
cooking," she said. "When I
married my husband, I became
part of a big Italian family."
It was while being guided by
Elena that Rose learned the art
of fine-tuning specialty dishes
like eggplant parmagiana,
antipasto and pasta cooked al
dente (firm).
"During the winter months, we
would spend months at a time
with his family," she said.
"Huge family meals with multiple
courses were no big deal; they
happened all the time."
Now Alessi devotes her summers
to overseeing the operation of
the restaurant. The kitchen is
run by her chef of four years,
Chef Carl. Alessi helps in the
kitchen when needed, but she
also does the hostessing for the
restaurant.
Alessi said the Italian dishes
she and Ruane have developed for
Villa Napoli have an
authenticity that has made even
Elena proud.
"All our ingredients are fresh,
especially the herbs; I'm very
fussy about that," she said,
pointing to a platter
overflowing with antipasto, a
traditional Italian appetizer
that includes fresh cheeses,
marinated vegetables, fruits and
greens flavored with a potpourri
of pungent herbs.
Alessi's version of antipasto
includes specially grilled and
marinated vegetables like
peppers, eggplant and zucchini;
fresh smoked mozzarella; slices
of melon wrapped in prosciutto;
salami, onions and olives. The
dish's crowning glory is the
caponata, a caramelized sweet
and sour Sicilian eggplant
relish.
Another large part of southern
Italian cooking, Alessi said,
are dishes made with eggplant.
"It (eggplant) was known as the
poor man's meat," she explained.
"The geography of southern Italy
didn't allow for lots of cattle
grazing, so meat dishes were
seldom served."
Cows were mostly used for their
milk, which in turn led to a
preponderance of cheeses like
mozzarella and peccorino romano,
from sheep, that currently
dominate the cuisine.
"The southern Italians were very
inventive," said Alessi. "They
used what they had at their
disposal, lots of fruits and
vegetables."
A typical meal for her husband's
family, who are originally from
Naples, includes several courses
of salads, cooked vegetables,
pasta, soup, entrees and dessert
-- assuming there's room for it.
Since the meals are so
extensive, Italian desserts are
typically light, usually fresh
fruit with a cream sauce or just
an espresso or cappuccino.
Below are some of Alessi's
favorite recipes she prepares at
Villa Napoli:
ANTIPASTO
Roasted Peppers - Roast
peppers on grill until charred.
Place in bowl and cover five
minutes, then peel off waxy
coating, discard stems and
seeds. Retain brown juice; slice
and drizzle with extra-virgin
olive oil, garlic slices and a
touch of balsamic vinegar.
Eggplant Caponata - Take two
large eggplants and dice into
.5-inch pieces. Sprinkle with
salt and drain in colander for
20 minutes. In the meantime, saute one large diced yellow
onion; when translucent, add two
stalks diced celery. Cook
together till softened, then add
the eggplant and cook until all
veggies are done. Add 1 cup
diced tomatoes, 2 tablespoons
red wine vinegar, 1 tablespoon
sugar and 1 handful of olives.
Sprinkle with parsley.
Marinated vegetables - 1 red
onion, sliced; artichoke hearts,
roasted red peppers. Marinate 20
minutes at least in 1/3 cup
extra-virgin olive oil, 1 ounce
white wine vinegar, salt to
taste and a squeeze of lemon.
Grilled vegetables - Slice
zucchini 1/3-inch thick, drizzle
with olive oil and grill. Have
on hand mixed greens and an
array of meats and cheeses.
Assemble platter artfully.
SALCICCIA CON ROSMARINO
(Sausage with rosemary)
Saute 1 large diced red onion in
olive oil until golden on high
heat. Add a pinch of chile
flakes, 1 bay leaf and 1 pound
sausage meat. Break up sausage
meat in pan and cook until
browned. Add 1 tablespoon
garlic, 1 cup canned tomato
puree and cook for 5 minutes.
Add .5 cup heavy cream and 1
tablespoon fresh rosemary.
Serve over any thick tube pasta:
penne, ziti, etc. Add fresh
arugula.
MELANZANE IMBOTTITO
(Stuffed eggplant with roasted
red pepper and tomato cream; for
4, use 8 slices)
Slice eggplant 1/3-inch thick.
Dredge in flour, egg and bread
crumbs. Fry in oil until golden
and almost done.
Combine .5 cup ricotta cheese,
cup cooked spinach, 1 ball fresh
mozzarella, diced, and 1/3 cup
parmesan cheese.
Divide mixture between 8 slices
of eggplant and bake. Place in
350-degree oven and bake 10
minutes; 5 minutes before
removing eggplant, cover with a
layer of mozzarella cheese.
Serve on a bed of roasted red
pepper and tomato cream: Saute 1
red onion, add can of pureed
roasted red pepper and cup of
your tomato sauce. Add cup cream
and cup fresh basil.
FRESH FRUIT WITH CANNOLI
CREAM
(Serves 4)
Wash, hull and quarter 1 pint
fresh strawberries. Retrieve a
few from the batch and puree
them.
Cannoli cream
1 cup ricotta cheese
2 tablespoons powered sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
teaspoon finely grated lemon
peel
cup chocolate chunks
2 tablespoon lemon liquor (limoncello)
or substitute Grand Marnier.
Mix and pour on top of berries.
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